There is no attempt to provide a “how to grow a crop” guide although, in general, there tends to be more information on crops that are not widely grown.  This is simply an attempt to distil the experiences of different plot holders in the hope that you will find the occasional observation on varieties or approaches to cultivation that is new and (hopefully) useful. Clicking on the heading for the majority of crops will bring up a background article on it from elsewhere on the Web in a new window (except those in green); the majority have been garnered from Wikipedia, the free online encyclopaedia that anybody can contribute towards. The quality of these articles varies: as with most topics on Wikipedia, some are very comprehensive, while others are not so thorough. Other links are periodically scattered through the text. Any recommendations on links to better background articles or additional links to items of note will be gratefully received. 

General Cultivation Comments

With the exception of cane fruits, many soft fruit crops can be grown in a variety of ways: bush, cordon, espalier, et cetera. While it is possible to get better crops with cordons or espaliers, they generally require much more attention than the bush, and it follows that the majority of plot holders opt for the bush form.

Pruning is always recommended, but one sees enough neglected plants on the site that still manage to produce huge crops to wonder just how necessary it really is. It is probably safe to say that cane fruits do benefit from annual pruning, while bushes can do well despite a lack of attention except where disease is present or where inadequate air circulation causes problems.

All soft fruit will benefit from a periodic mulch of organic matter, ideally once a year in the early spring. Similarly, plants will benefit from the application of a high potash or balanced fertiliser in early spring, depending on the crop.

The main problem with soft fruit is that birds, squirrels and other wild life love them too. I remember one person complaining that their whole blackcurrant crop had been stolen; yes, but probably not by humans. Netting is usually a necessity at the fruiting stage.

Fewer varieties are mentioned below when compared with the vegetable sections. There are two reasons: people inherit fruit bushes when they take over a plot and do not know what the varieties are; or the passage of time has eroded the varieties from their memories (certainly from mine!).

There are a number of web sites which can be very useful to fruit growers:

fruitexpert.co.uk is a useful general site, particularly for new growers
Meiosis.co.uk is an excellent site with very useful information on recent soft fruit varieties
RHS articles on various aspects of fruit growing
fruitdisease.co.uk can help to identify problems in soft fruit such as viruses
disease factsheets collated from the work in 6 American universities
article from Washington State on the problems surrounding the storage of fruit.

Blackcurrant

Blackcurrants, which can be quite prolific, are quite popular on the site.  Although there are a number of problems that the blackcurrant can suffer from, e.g. Big Mite, Reversion and mildew, the major problem is often frost damage as it flowers early.

Baldwin used to be the most popular all-round variety, but it is susceptible to disease and has been largely replaced by the “Ben” and Malling Jet varieties, which include some resistance to mildew and frost hardiness, plus they flower later. Further information on varieties can be found on The Blackcurrant Foundation web site. Also, fruitgateway.co.uk contains background information on blackcurrants.

Two plot holders are very pleased with Ben Sarek which produces good size fruit on a relatively dwarf-size plant and one plot holder with Ben Connan.

The GardenAction site has a series of pages on blackcurrant cultivation.

Blackberry

Blackberries are very easy to grow and they are usually very prolific with fruit appearing from late July / early August onwards, depending on the variety. Although the occasional “thorned” variety such Himalaya Giant is still grown, they have been largely replaced by thornless varieties. Thornless varieties that are currently recommended for flavour include Waldo, Helen, and Loch Ness.

The GardenAction site has a series of pages on blackberry cultivation.

Gooseberry

It is predominantly grown as a bush; there is only one plot holder that grows it as a cordon. Problems tend to be spasmodic: a troublesome year may be followed by a troublefree year. The main problems are: the caterpillars which hatch from the eggs that are laid by the gooseberry sawfly (mid-May to early June); and American Mildew which can affect new growth and the fruit (during May) - spraying the plants with a washing soda / soft soap solution twice (at the beginning of May and 2-3 weeks later) provides a chemical free solution. See Garden Recipes. Keeping the plant “open” by regular pruning so that air can circulate will help to reduce the likelihood of mildew.

Leveller is probably the most popular dessert variety. Whinham’s Industry is a similarly popular red variety, although red fruit is less popular than green (for some reason). Whinham’s Industry also grows well in shady areas and on heavy soils. It was not affected by the sawfly in 2006, whereas other varieties did suffer. Invicta is resistant to mildew, as is Red Hamamekii.

Here is some advice on cultivating gooseberries.

Hybrid Berries

One plot holder has a Tayberry, a cross between a blackberry and a raspberry. She has the variety Buckingham Thornless.

Melon

It is possible to grow melons on the plot although the plants need to spend the majority of the growing season in a cloche or cold frame in a typical British summer. A proliferation of male flowers tends to appear initially; pinching the tips out after 4 pairs of leaves can help to encourage female flowers to form. Ensure that there is sufficient ventilation so that insects can readily get in to pollinate the plants; in the case of low cloches it may be better to remove them altogether at this time. Some books recommend hand pollination, particularly in seasons when fruit-setting is slow. This is done by picking an open male flower, removing the petals to expose the pollen-bearing stamens, and twiddling in an open female flower. In truth, the insects do a much better job.  Once a sufficient number of fruits have set successfully (say 4 per plant) the cloches can be put back in place unless the July temperatures are high (as in 2006). Keep the fruits off the soil to prevent possible rotting. Stones can be used, as shown in the picture. Melons usually tell you when they are ready by the smell.

Cantaloupe varieties produce very sweet melons, e.g. Early Sweet and Sweetheart (pictured – produced an excellent crop in 2006).

Here is a useful article on growing melons by Bob Flowerdew.

Raspberry

The general view appears to be that autumn varieties which usually commence to fruit in late July or early August do better than summer varieties. The latter, in addition to producing a poorer crop, suffer from more pest damage, e.g. wasps and raspberry beetle. The autumn varieties may also suffer slightly from the raspberry beetle early on, but they seem to shake it off and then proceed to crop well over a long period, sometimes up to the time of the first frosts.

Autumn Bliss is by far the most popular autumn variety on our site. Summer varieties include Glen Ample and Malling Admiral.

The GardenAction web site has a series of useful pages on raspberry cultivation.

Also, fruitgateway.co.uk contains background information on raspberries.

Red (and White) Currant

This is a relatively troublefree crop that requires little pruning, as it fruits on both old and new wood. The red currants which are quite popular on the site tend to be tart and better used for cooking, whereas the white currant (originally a sport of the red currant) is more suitable for dessert although I am not aware that anybody on the site grows it?

Ribes Jonkheer Von Tets is a heavy cropping red currant.  Details on other varieties that are grown on the site – can you help?

Here is a useful article on red currant cultivation.

Rhubarb

Is it a vegetable or a fruit? Well, I have decided that it is fruit for the purposes of these pages. Rhubarb will usually thrive despite your best endeavours to kill it off. I am not aware that anybody attempts to force it to produce an early crop. There is probably little need, as some plot holders are picking it in early March. Nobody seems to know what variety they have – most assume that it is Victoria . Many stop picking when it starts to become acidic – it contains oxalic acid; this usually occurs around the end of May. Just in case anybody is not aware - the leaves contain significantly higher levels of oxalates than the stalks and must not be eaten. The Rhubarb Compendium is probably the most comprehensive set of pages that I have seen on any crop.

Strawberry

Growing strawberries on a bed that is covered with ground cover material has become popular. The advantages are that it keeps weeds down; helps to retains moisture; and keeps the fruit clean. One plot holder has a view that, on the debit side, flavour is affected.

The ideal variety has not yet been found, i.e. one that marries vigorous growth, disease resistance and outstanding flavour. Cambridge Favourite and El Santa are both popular for their vigour and disease resistance, but some are disappointed with the flavour. One plot holder grew Honeoye which had excellent flavour but the plants were somewhat stunted and seldom survived for more than 1-2 years, although runners allowed the stock to be replenished. Cambridge Vigour is another variety with good flavour but which is prone to disease. Another plot holder has a stock (variety unknown) with excellent flavour that dates back to at least the Second World War. Alice is a new variety which has been getting good reviews; one plot holder tried it for the first time in 2007, resulting in large tasty fruits initially but they were then affected by the heavy rains (as indeed were other varieties).

Alpine Strawberries are usually grown from seed (autumn sowing) and produce small fragrant (though not juicy) berries from July to the first frosts. They are also useful as ground cover. The productive life, according to the experts, is one year although it will self-seed.

Here is a useful article on strawberries from the NVS (National Vegetable Society).